In a valley surrounded by active volcanoes
An exhilarating chicken bus ride to a UNESCO World Heritage Site brings us to a valley surrounded by volcanoes with one hike bringing us close enough to practically touch flowing lava.
Since it's rainy season in Guatemala, every day contains an unpredictable and sudden shower of rain and thunderstorms. Not everyone has accepted the inevitability of being caught in one of these which means we have many of the remnants of the Spanish Baroque-style architecture to ourselves.
Close to the city lies Volcán de Pacaya. Due to its volcanic activity being mostly strombolian (relatively mild) it's possible to get extremely close to the active volcano. We head up to around 2500m the gravel turning jet black as we get close. The weather turns and visibility decreases as we get closer to the summit.
As we arrive it feels like we have just passed through the gates of Mordor. A steady plume of ash rises from the crater while steam climbs through the cracks of the lava field. Next to the hiss of raindrops instantly turning to vapour after coming in to contact with the steady lava streams an uncharacteristically delicate sound cuts through the wind. The rapid rate of magma cooling creates the sound of glass cascading and shattering into a million tiny shards.
After the now darkening night sky is sporadically illuminated by bright flashes of lightning we take it as an earnest sign to return to the safety of the village. The next day greets us with sun and blue skies as if the previous storms never happened.
There's lots to explore in Antigua. The vibrant colours of a local organic farm are reflected in the live music and bustle of the market taking place just opposite. After some of the best food we have had all trip we find some small bottles of homemade rum which we plan to share when we reach the summit of the highest mountain in Central America.
