/travel/dongola-2022
sudan · dongola · December 2022

100 bites, power cuts and a new friend

Dongola, Sudan's Northern State capital, gifts us 100 mosquito bites, several power cuts, and one new friend — Khalid, who shows us his city with the enthusiasm of someone who knows its best secrets.

100 bites, power cuts and a new friend

We spend a few nights in Dongola, Sudan's Northern State capital and meet Khalid, a friendly local who shows us around his favourite spots in the city.

As night falls and we aim to a rest from following Khalid (an extremely fast walker) all around the city we are interrupted by swarms of mosquitos during the night.

From time to time the city goes dark as power cuts are frequent. After exploring the bustling city on foot by day we relax with Khalid in local tea and thamiya shops during the evening. Complemented by Khalid's kind demeanour and friendly gestures, Google Translate enables us to have some deeper conversations.

After many wonderful experiences and conversations shared over local meals and drinks its time to leave Dongola and head towards Karima. We hitchike in the back of a truck transporting an old car watching the endless desert plains go by for 100's of kilometers.

data · Sudan

Population
50.0M
20042023
Urban population
34.8%
20042023
GNI per capita (PPP)
$2,226
20182023
GDP growth
-2.5%
20042019
Gini index
34.2
20092010
Median age
18.3
20042023
Fertility
4.3
20042023
Democracy index
0.04
20042023
Corruption (CPI)higher = less corruption
20 / 100
20122023
source: our world in data, v-dem, transparency international · 2023 · fetched Apr 2026
coords: 19.166°N 30.4696°E · observations: 19