/travel/khartoum-2022
sudan · khartoum · December 2022

Between revolution and oppression

Arriving in Khartoum via a 10-hour bus, we're pulled straight into the orbit of a resistance movement — meetings under a "discussion tree", CT scans of shrapnel passed around, and a city that has learned to live alongside oppression.

Between revolution and oppression

After a 10hour bus journey we arrive in Sudans capital and head straight to a connection we set up through couchsurfing. We walk to the "discussion tree" to meet his friends and fellow revolutionists. Sudanese culture, history and politics are discussed and debated in the hope of ending the oppressive regime. Violent protests are the norm with ct scans of shrapnel shown to us by one of the protestors, while his 16 year old son was hit with a tear gas cannister just yesterday. Despite this the next plan is being made... talks of protests at gold mines owned by Hemedti in Darfur.

Despite the constant political fight which has become part of daily life on top of existing struggles there is hope that Sudan is on the brink of change. Political graffiti referencing historic revolutionary dates aims to encourage resistance commitees to continue. Walking through the city while experiencing the lingering effects of tear gas, observing the strategically placed containers at major bridges and chokepoints and internet outages is a reminder that this fight will not be easy.

Since Sudans independence in 1956 only around 9 years have been a democratic government... all other times a military government/dictatorship. Despite this difficult past and present this country is home to some of the most generous and hospitable people.We stay for many days with a local family, sharing meals and exploring the city and seeing the merging point of the blue and white nile (differing in the colours from the sediments they carry).

Despite there being high hopes for (positive) change a brutal civil war erupted in April 2023. Unfathomable war crimes including mass executions, ethnic cleansing, sexual violence, and starvation led to an estimated 11 million people displaced.

The people of Sudan continue to suffer at the mercy of a power struggle between Hemedti (RSF) and Al-Burhan (SAF). To find out more take a look at the Centre for Information Resilience, an organisation using OSINT investigation and research to expose human rights violations and threats to democracy.

Link: Centre for Information Resilience — Sudan Witness

data · Sudan

Population
50.0M
20042023
Urban population
34.8%
20042023
GNI per capita (PPP)
$2,226
20182023
GDP growth
-2.5%
20042019
Gini index
34.2
20092010
Median age
18.3
20042023
Fertility
4.3
20042023
Democracy index
0.04
20042023
Corruption (CPI)higher = less corruption
20 / 100
20122023
source: our world in data, v-dem, transparency international · 2023 · fetched Apr 2026
coords: 15.5974°N 32.5356°E · observations: 19