Through the Red Sea Hills

Arriving by bus from Atbara, the road quickly lives up to its reputation. The tarmac gives way to craters, so big they are unavoidable causing some trucks to overturn. Makeshift roadblocks slow our progress.

We pull into Sinkat and find somewhere to sleep. The town sits in the Red Sea Hills neither a city nor village but somewhere between the two, a place of passing for many.

A short walk through the streets is enough to attract a crowd. One man speaks decent English and serves as a relay while tea arrives from the thamiya shop without being asked for. A group of older men produce daggers from their robes, held out with patient smiles.

We stay until long after sunset, then climb the hill above town to watch the headlights of trucks crawling along the desert highway.